Today at Grand Sport Detailing, we are going to discuss how to maintain your car the right way. Washing your car the right way will keep your car in the best condition. Most of the wear and tear of the paintwork is caused by improper washing and drying techniques – the major reason of instilling Swirl Marks and light scratches!

​Things you’ll need:
- Snow Foam Lance (optional but highly recommended)
- High Pressure Washer (optional but highly recommended.
- 2 Buckets
- pH Neutral Car Wash Shampoo and Snow Foam Shampoo
- Grit Guards (optional but highly recommend)
- Wash Mitt
- Microfibre Drying Towels
- Drying Aids (Spray Wax or Quick Detailer)
 
Things to throw away because they are extremely harmful
- Sponges
- Chamois “Shammy” 

​Why throw away sponges and chamois you might ask? Sponges do clean very thoroughly, but what most people don’t realise is that is very coarse and flat. Which means not only it traps dirt in between the sponge and your paintwork, and the coarseness will cause light marring and swirl marks. Chamois does dry the car extremely well, but it ‘grabs’ on the paintwork. If there are any dust or dirt trapped it between, swirl marks is caused! These effects will be amplified on cars with softer paintwork.
 
Step 1: Preparation
- Dilute Snow Foam with water, it is usually 1:10. Sometimes some products will have different dilution so check first before you mixed it up.
- Fill up 2 Buckets with water and put 2-3 caps of shampoo in one of the buckets.
 
Step 2: Pre-Wash
- Apply Snow Foam with the snow foam lance and apply a nice and thick layer over the entire car. Let it sit for about 3 to 5 minutes. In the meantime, you can take some of the detailing brushes and thoroughly brush the grilles and crevices.

Step 3: Rinse
- High Pressure Rinse thoroughly over the whole car

Step 4: Wash 
- Take your wash mitt, dip it into the shampoo mixed bucket. Wash a quarter of a panel each time. Start from the roof and work your way down. After each quarter of a panel, rinse the wash mitt in the plain water bucket and repeat the process above.
 
Step 5: Rinse
- High Pressure Rinse thoroughly over the whole car

Step 6: Drying your car
- Use your microfibre drying towel to dry over your car. Carry 2 to 3 Towels with you because usually a towel will get too wet after about 1/3 of the car.
 
Step 7: Final Touch
- Use a high quality spray wax or quick detailer, spray and wipe over the whole car, panels by panels.

We hope this article helped you to get a better understanding about how to wash your car the right way. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us.

​First of all, we would like to wish everyone a Happy New Year and we would like to thank our customers that booked their cars with us in 2016. We have grown a lot as a business in 2016 and we are ready to tackle down 2017 with our upgraded tools and workmanship. 

​As all car owners know, keeping your car clean can be a difficult task to do. Especially for daily drivers and their cars are exposed to the road and harsh weather on a daily basis. Today at Grand Sport Detailing, we are going to discuss 3 best ways to keep your car clean for this summer.

​If you haven’t wax your car in a while, chances your car doesn’t have any kind of protection are pretty high. Regularly waxing your car is a cost effective way to maintain your paintwork’s finish and also you’d find your car is a lot easier to clean and it won’t get dirty as easily! A high quality wax or sealant should last at least 2 to 3 months, equivalent to a season.

​It doesn’t matter if you haven’t already waxed your car. By applying Spray Wax (Mist and Wipe), you get the same effects as wax – glossy, slick, water beading etc. But however it doesn’t last long. By applying spray wax whenever you wash your car, your car will always be like your car has just been waxed! If you have already waxed your car, applying spray wax whenever you wash your car will preserve and condition your wax and it will last a lot longer than intended! Sooner or later your friends will start questioning you about how your car always looks so good and clean. 

​Carrying a waterless wash or quick detailer spray is sometimes the best solution of car owners that lives in apartment or town houses where conventional car wash is simply not an option for them especially in Inner Melbourne Suburbs. That’s where waterless or rinseless wash comes in very handy. However, we do not recommend this method for extra dirty cars.
After you’ve done a conventional wash, using waterless wash once every couple of days can maintain your car nice and clean. Quick Detailer has a very similar characteristic compared to waterless wash. Without getting too technical, quick detailer is a light version of waterless wash. It’s design to remove finger prints, very light dust and to enhance the gloss to give your car a “just detailed” look.

Quick tip: When using waterless wash, be sure not to use too much pressure and flip sides on your microfibre cloth often to prevent any paint marring.

We are going to talk about decontamination today at Grand Sport Detailing. In Car Detailing, good preparation is key to good results. Decontamination is a major part of the prepping and detailing process. 

Contamination usually happens with a combination of a car that hasn't been detailed for a long period of time and also lacking of any form of paint protection. As you drive your car everyday, your car is exposed to road grime such as industrial fallouts, brake dust, tree sap, the list goes on. Washing your car regularly is a good idea but how ever it will not remove contaminants that are bonded strongly to the surface. We call that above-surface imperfections and below-surface imperfections are imperfections such as swirl marks, light scratches etc because they are literally, below the surface of a paint work. ​Hence why paint protection (in any form) is important.

Build up of contamination can cause your paintwork to feel rough, similar texture of a sandpaper and might even look less glossy and dull. 

You can decontaminate your car in two ways, chemical and mechanical (physical). Usually good detailers will use a combination of the both. 

Chemical Decontamination is used when a car is protected with Ceramic Quartz Coating or when the car is mildly contaminated (eg. Brand New car)
​
Types of Chemical Decontamination:

• Iron Fallout Removal - Such as CarPro's Iron X or Gyeon Iron 
  
• Tar Adhesive Removal - Such as CarPro's Tar X or Gyeon Tar

In a perfect world, contaminants wouldn't be an issue on cars. In reality, they are very normal and they are ways to reduce the chances of contaminants building up on your car's paintwork. 

Low cost solution: Washing and waxing your car in a regular basis would be able to reduce contaminants from building up your car over time, and also make sure to check regularly for contaminants with the hand or plastic bag method and use a clay bar treatment if necessary and these products are usually widely available at local auto store.

Medium cost solution: Bringing to a reputable detailer on a fortnightly or monthly basis for a maintenance detail. A good reputable detailer knows if your car needs a light or heavy decontamination and they usually have high quality waxes or sealants in their arsenal. We do have maintenance detail packages for your car care needs. Be sure to get in touch with us if you need to get your car detailed regularly.

Medium to High Cost Solution: Ceramic Quartz Paint Protection Coating. Also known as glass or nano coating. A good coating does provide a long term protection permanent protection that doesn't wear off while washing, self-cleaning effects from their very hydrophobic nature and also its inability for particles to adhere to the surface, hence a extremely low chance of getting contaminants build up on your car's paintwork. If a coated car is regularly maintained properly, not only your car will look as good as it just has been detailed from Day 1, also your car will be contaminant free at all times! We do offer ceramic coatings coatings for both brand new and used car. 

We hope this article helped you to have a better understanding on decontaminations. Feel free to contact us about anything questions you have regarding to detailing.

How water reacts on a vehicle's paintwork is definitely one of the hottest topic in the automotive detailing world. To the untrained eye, it might look the same because both water behaviours do have the "water repellency" effect. 

However, there are two main kinds of water behaviour that automotive paint protection provides: Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic. How different are they? To simplify it, hydrophobic allows water to bead into a sphere of water droplets while hydrophilic allow water to sheet off the surface instead of beading into a sphere of water.

Hydrophobic types of paint protection has been very popular and most paint protection coatings on the market promotes hydrophobic water behaviour.

Here's an example of how hydrophobic coating reacts to water: 

The pros of a hydrophobic types of paint protection is that they promote a strong self-cleaning effect, dirt and grime are less likely to stick on to the coated surface and it makes washing the car a lot easier. 

However, there a couple of cons of hydrophobic coatings. If they are not dried properly after a car wash, or rain, it will form hard water spots from the minerals build up on the water droplets and these water spots can be a problem for certain areas that rains often. 

Here's a video example of hydrophobic coating water behaviour:
Video courtesy to Project Detail in Sydney.

Hydrophilic is the opposite of Hydrophobic. Hydrophobic simply means that the surface is "afraid" of water and hydrophilic simply means that surface "loves" the water, therefore instead of water repelling the surface, it sheets off. 

Here's an example of how hydrophilic coating reacts to water: 

We hope to provide you with more understanding of the differences between hydrophobic and hydrophilic types of paint protection. Feel free to contact us if you have any questions regarding.

Car Detailing is a very broad term. To individuals, it might sound like it's just getting a car properly clean. While to some, it actually means that every single little detail of a vehicle has been looked after.

Unfortunately not everyone knows what a proper detail is, and the mindset behind detailing is very outdated to the general public. 

At Grand Sport Detailing, we are here to discuss the most common myths surrounding car detailing to give you a better understanding of what it is. 

Myth: Car wash, cleaning, detailing are exactly the same. They are just different names and their job is just to make sure a car is properly cleaned. 

Fact: Services car wash cafes provides are completely different to what actual professional details provide. A proper car detailing is about 85% more than just a normal car wash you would get at a hand car wash cafe. 

Compared to a proper detail, a normal car wash takes up about 15% of the whole picture that a professional detailer do. After a car wash, we follow up with a full vehicle decontamination on the paintwork that safely removes very fine above-surface contamination that can't be removed by a simple 2-bucket method wash. Not to mention these very fine above-surface decontamination cannot be seen with our naked eye. Our ultimate goal, is to now only wash and clean the vehicle but do so in the most gentle manner to avoid instilling imperfections in the paint such as swirl marks, marring and micro scratches from quick and improper washing done by automatic car wash and hand car wash cafes. We would then dry the vehicle with soft microfibre drying towels and air blow dry instead of using the (in)famous chamois "shammy".

After all that, we then follow up with an extensive paint polishing to remove below-surface contaminations such as blemishes, minor scratches, swirl marks etc to refine the paintwork to be close to brand new condition, or sometimes even better. After all those steps, we then apply a premium last step product (aka LSP such as waxes, sealants, and paint protection coatings) for short or long term protection. 

Myth: Hiring a professional to buff my car is not necessary. I can just buy some products at the local auto store and polish it myself by hand. 

Fact: Back in the 1960-70s era where base-clear coat paint system hasn't been introduced, this myth used to be a fact. Vehicle's paintwork back in the day are all single stage paint and paint oxidisation is a major issue with those paint systems. Oxidisation can be removed by polishing with hand with the right products. In recent years, after base-clear coat paint system introduced, base-clear coat paint is way too hard and it is impossible to hand polish to achieve half-decent result. Products you find on the shelf of auto stores are mainly glazes, waxes or sealants which contains fillers and resin that does not contain any abrasives to level the minor scratches and blemishes out. They simply 'fill' or 'mask' the imperfections so it looks good for a short period of time, but the effect is not permanent. Even if they do contain abrasives such as Meguiar's Scratch X, Ultimate Compound just to name a few, hand polishing with them does not remove imperfections like a machine polisher would.

Paint Correction (aka cut and polish, buffing, polishing etc.) performed by professional detailers are permanent results that will not be washed away or come back after a week or two. Treat it like a brand new paint. 

A weekend warrior or car enthusiast might see the value of buying equipment themselves to polish their cars to save money. We respect the enthusiasm but however keep it in mind that the cost will be equivalent or even higher than hiring a professional detailer and the results won't be as good compared if a job is done by a professional detailer. Machine polishers, compounds, cloths, chemicals and miscellaneous products such as masking tape's cost will be about to $1500 to $2000. Not to mention you'll need to learn how to use them properly in order to achieve good results. 

Myth: ​Modern clear coats are design to resist UV and it can protect itself, especially modern german ceramic hard clear coats and self-healing technology. Getting a detailer to apply a good paint protection would be a waste of money and I don't see a value in that. Paint Protection are rubbish anyway. No paint protection product can resist bird poo baking under the sun on paint. Just buy a $10 wax and apply every month, that's the best protection you can get. 

Fact: Clear coats are only designed to resist UV to a certain extent. Long exposure to the sun's UV rays (especially in Australia) will lead to clear coat fading and failure. While European, luxury and high end vehicles certainly have better quality paint, it is by no means impervious to UV, swirls or scratches.

Waxing your car is a good way to protect to some extend but not all. We did several test with conventional wax, sealant and coatings. Wax does not protect your car from chemical etching such as bird/bat poo, sealant does a okay job as long as it haven't been sit on the paint surface for too long.

Meanwhile Ceramic Quartz Coatings were resistant to chemicals of pH 2-13, UV and even physical resistance such as micro marring and very light swirl marks. Coatings are usually considered as permanent due to their inability to be washed away from regular washes and they require proper preparation stages for the coating to perform well.

Myth: Paint correction is exactly the same as cut and polish. It's just an marketing term detailers use for huge price markup. 

Fact: Cut and polish is not just using a paste/liquid compound that you apply using a foam hand applicator and "polish" the paintwork that many people still assume. These paste/liquid cut and polish compounds are generally not designed for clear coat finishes. They work on oxidised single-stage paints that came out from the factory in the pre-1980s. Going all the way back, cut and polish actually means you "cut" back the paint with fine grit sand paper and polish the sanding marks out with a rotary with a lambswool pad to refinish the car. Typically these combination restores the paintwork back to how it looks like when its new, therefore the popularity of the term. In the modern detailing world, a proper cut and polish is equivalent to Stage 3 to 4 Paint Correction where we wet-sand, heavy levelling with a rotary, level and finish it with a DA such as a Rupes random orbital polisher which it would be a week worth work.

Myth: Detailer X charges me $200 cheaper than Detailer Y. The quality is no different as from other detailers that charges more. What a deal!

Fact:​ We always hear about new detailing businesses that charges at a low rate and gets themselves busy. We respect that because we understand that a good detailer has to start somewhere.

But when comes to quality and results, its a whole different story. Good detailers charges more for a reason, a good detailer has more experience and attention to detail. To produce good results, a detailer needs to spend more time looking for little imperfections and taking extra steps in their work to achieve another level of perfection which cannot be learned overnight.

Furthermore, as a detailer progresses, they ideally invest more money into better equipment, more intensive techniques and better products. A detailer with a workshop, also has fixed overheads which are often larger meaning that his prices and work must reflect these costs.

We hoped we helped you to have a better understanding of what a proper detailing is. Feel free to contact us for any questions you might have by clicking here. 

One of the biggest debate in the automotive world is should a brand new car get paint protection? Especially the huge popularity of ceramic quartz nano coating these days. 

To us as detailers, of course we would say yes but it all comes down to your purpose of your car, your car wash and maintenance schedule and whether it is a prestigious show car garage queen or simple everyday car. 

Paint Protection comes in three main different forms. Wax, Sealant, and Ceramic Quartz Nano Coating and all three of them are completely different to each other. 

Wax
Waxes comes in liquid format or paste format. The main advantage of wax is the warmth and gloss it provides. It's almost unbeatable compared to sealants and coatings. 

There are two different kinds of waxes however. There is carnauba and synthetic wax. The main difference would be how they are made. Carnauba is a considered as natural wax and synthetic is made with chemicals. Carnauba based paste wax would be the best wax you could buy and it usually provides a superior results and longevity compared to synthetic waxes. Waxes would last about 3 months and it would require reapplication. It would be perfect for car enthusiasts that loves to wash and wax their car every month or so!

Sealant 
Sealants are well known to last longer and providing a better protection solution as compared to Wax. Comparing the finish of a sealant and natural wax, natural wax outperforms sealants from its deep warmth and gloss. Back in the days, sealants are considered a ground-breaking technology until lately when ceramic quartz coatings are introduced.

However there are two kinds of sealants: 

Polymer Sealant 
Vast majority of the sealants you can find on the shelf of your local auto store are usually a polymer sealant. A polymer sealant is made up of tens of thousands of synthetic particles that are linked together. When a polymer sealant cures, it is basically forms a 'plastic' shield on the vehicle's paintwork - glossy and slick. The best kept secret in the detailing world would be applying natural wax on top of a polymer sealant for a extremely deep and glossy finish. 
Note - Many dealerships in Australia, that sell a form of paint protection is more then likely a Polymer Sealant when you buy a brand new car. 

PTFE or Teflon based Sealant
PTFE based sealants works exactly like a Polymer sealant, but with a different kind of polymer. You'll find non-stick PTFE coating for pans and other cookware. It is very non-reactive, partly because of the strength of the carbon–fluorine bonds. Research shows that PTFE technology works excellent on car's paintwork and it fills or 'hide' paint imperfections well for those who are not going through an extensive paint correction but rather wants it to look good for a day or a pre-sale presentation to potential buyers. Although it generally won't last as long as polymer sealant, it provides a glossier finish as compared to polymer sealants and are generally more expensive compared to polymer sealants. 

PTFE sealants are generally more expensive than polymer sealants. A good sealant should last up to 6 months. 

Ceramic Quartz Coating
Ceramic quartz coating, or also known as a nano coating, glass coating etc is a ground breaking improvement in the automotive industry, it has existed for many years with a recent spike in popularity and brands in the past few years. It uses Silicon Dioxide or SiO2 (aka Ceramic/Quartz/Liquid Glass) that cures into a hard glass that provides superior protection. It severely outperforms sealants in every single way. The 4 main advantage of a coating is: Gloss, Longevity, Physical Resistance and Hydrophobicity. A good coating applied properly by a detailer with appropriate prep work, it could last anywhere from 2 to 5 years and it eliminates the need to wax or polish your car again. Did we mention it has self-washing effects from the hydrophobicity in the coating. Even so, natural waxes finishes better than a coating due to its carnauba content. Although there are plenty of coatings to choose from, there are two types of coating: Consumer and Professional-only coating. 

Consumer Coating
Due to coating's complexity of application, we do advise car owner's to do extensive research about coatings and how to apply them, because once the coating is applied and cured, it can be only be removed via abrasion only. A consumer coating is a simplified and easier to apply version of a professional-only coating, targeted to weekend warriors and car enthusiast that are keen to apply a coating by themselves. A consumer coating usually have a lot less SiO2 content, more user-friendly, a lot easier to apply and usually a shorter lifespan as compared to professional-only coating.

Professional-Only Coating
Professional-only coating are usually coatings that are not available to purchase to the public and are exclusively available to selected detailers. Selected detailers usually have to attend a training session to properly learn how to apply the product professionally to prevent any errors and quality control. Each individual professional-only coating has its own unique way of preparation process to optimise the best results from each application and usually paint correction is needed to remove existing imperfections such as swirl marks and minor scratches. The main difference between a consumer version and a professional-only coating are mainly the SiO2 content and the solvent a coating carries. The higher the SiO2 content is, the more difficult it is to apply and precautions has to be taken into account. 

Pro Tip: SiO2 percentage has becoming a marketing hype in the industry. So if you see a consumer coating claiming to contain 80% or more SiO2 content in a single part and you feel that it's too good to be true? Then it probably is. A Professional-only coating usually contains anywhere from 75% to 85% SiO2 Content.

Although modern clear coats are designed to resist UV and some light blemishes, especially for European cars and BMW's CeramiClear. It is still recommended to get paint protection in any format due to Australia's strong UV and harsh weather conditions. We have seen clear coat failures from the strong UV and bird/bat poo permanently damaged on a fairly new car due to lack of paint protection.

For cars that are driven in a weekly or monthly basis, we would recommend applying a carnauba paste wax once a month and wash in a weekly or fortnightly basis. 
For cars that are driven daily, we would recommend getting ceramic quartz coating professionally applied by a reputable detailer.
For car enthusiasts, we recommend a polymer sealant or even a consumer coating for ease of maintenance. 

For any questions regards to car detailing or paint protection, feel free to contact us by clicking here. 

Here at Grand Sport Detailing, we often providing tips and advice to customers after they got their car detailed by us so they can maintain their car's finish. Maintaining the aesthetics of your vehicle should be as important as any other mechanical areas that your vehicle needs to be continuously maintained.  

A 2-bucket method wash is a safe way to wash your car without causing any imperfections to your paintwork. 
Two buckets, one with clean water and one with your shampoo mix. Start by rinsing your car down to loosen up all the dirt and grime. Take your wash mitt, 'dip' it into the shampoo bucket and start washing your vehicle, small section at a time. After covering a small section, 'dip' it into the clean water and rinse all the dirt out. Start again by dipping into the shampoo bucket and repeat the process until the entire car is washed. Rinse the shampoo and suds away from the car and you'll be ready to dry the car. 

If your detailer only uses one bucket for a wash, it's better to walk away. 

From our years of detailing experience, chamois (leather or synthetic) causes more harm than good. A chamois dries your car extremely well, absorbing water and leaving no streak marks on your paintwork and it can be squeezed out and reuse it again for the whole car without the need of using multiple cloths.  

However, the main issue about chamois is they are very grabby, doesn't matter if its leather or synthetic. They "grab" onto your paintwork and glide across with a strong friction. The chamois itself in addition to any possible dust or dirt particles or anything you missed during the washing stages may also be dragged along the surface causing scratches and marring.

In our opinion, a form of protection is necessary for a car's paintwork. It doesn't matter if its wax, sealant or a ceramic quartz coating. A form of paint protection protects a car finish from Melbourne's harsh weather and Australia'a strong UV rays to prevent the car's paintwork from deteriorating.

Wax, sealant or ceramic quartz coating also makes the paint surface hydrophobic. In layman terms, any water comes in contact with the surface, it beads and runs off the paint surface instead of sitting on the surface so it makes washing and maintaining a car a lot easier. 

For any questions in regards to Car Detailing, feel free to contact us by clicking here. We are more than happy to have a chat about any questions you may have in regards to car detailing. 

Picked up from the dealership, pre-owned and it was "detailed" and waxed by the dealership detailers before our client picked up the vehicle. From a distance, no doubt it looks great but when it's under the sun, minor swirl marks, scratches, holograms and other imperfections showed up. 

We went through an intensive Paint Correction to permanently remove most of the imperfection and protected it with our CS2 Ceramic permanent paint protection coating. Before and after was a major change and the owner couldn't be more happier. At the end of all the hard work, seeing a customer happy is what motivates us to constantly pushing ourselves to deliver the best results.

APC mixed with snow foam concentrate and water to break down the current wax and more thorough wash, followed by a mandatory 2-bucket system wash and a clay bar treatment to remove bonded contaminants on the paintwork that is impossible remove with a 2-bucket method wash. 

Whole vehicle is then dried using proper drying techniques with using a microfibre drying towel to prevent further damage. Without drying the car with the right techniques, it can cause micro marring, swirl marks and also water spots if not dried properly due to minerals such as calcium our water. (Hence why protection is important) 

2016 Porsche Macan S, what we call the ultimate performance SUV. 3000kms, now protected with our top of the range paint protection coating, CS2 Titanium Two-part glass coating + CS2 Xcelerator. With test showing a 9H Pencil Hardness and a whooping of ~60µm, it is as probably as thick as a clear coat. (an average clear coat thickness measures anywhere from 50 to 80µm+, it varies a lot from automotive manufacturers), different parts of the coating interlocks hardness (Si, Quartz), slickness and hydrophobicity. 

Going through our intensive decontamination and wash stage with a proper 2-bucket method wash, decontaminate with a clay bar treatment and iron fallout remover to reduce chances of instilling any imperfections. 

With only 3000kms, the car is showing signs of light imperfections and it will go through a Paint Correction safely remove and restore to a perfect finish. 

An intensive paint correction is then carried out to remove all of the imperfections with proper lighting in our detailing studio. 

Gloss and clarity. We can see the metallic flakes are popping!

Application of CS2 Titanium takes up the entire day, it is a very tedious process but however the results are beyond our expectations!

Wheels are protected with Nano-1's Alpha 45 Wheel Coating to reduce brake dust from adhering to the wheels and ease of maintenance over time. 

Dashboard are treated with Detailing Kingdom's Skin Satin 
Leather with leather coating and Fabric coat for the carpets and mats

Subaru WRX Hyper Blue - being a limited edition colour, it certainly stands out of the crowd. 

After a couple of months of ownership, the owner began to feel that the car's paint is starting to deteriorate - losing its luster, swirl marks and blemishes started to appear. It is devastating considered the vehicle is only a few months old.

​We recommended a Stage 1 Paint Correction to restore and heal the gloss and we are confident to say that the results are certainly a lot better than when the car is first being dropped off! (I might be even better than how it came out from the Subaru's showroom floor)

All work is carried out at our detailing studio.

​We emphasise a lot when comes to methods, techniques and importance of the wash and decontamination stage. This is the most important step that sets detailers from a amateur and professional when comes to the proper detailing work.

​A few trials and test spot is carried out to work out the best machine, pad and compound combo to achieve the best results. Seems like Rupes, Menzerna and Detailing Kingdom's delivers amazing results!

We originally thought the side skirts aren't painted until we did a test spot, and found out that they actually are, so we managed to glossed it up.

The entire vehicle's paint is then wiped down with a 20% water dilution with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any oils, polish and previous traces of wax and oils to ensure a perfect surface for the coating to bond well with the paintwork. 

Rim's is then protected with Nano-1's Alpha 45 (by CS2) for ease of maintenance, also delivering semi-permanant high gloss that can't be washed off and window is then protected with window coating.

Interior is then protected with SiO2 leather protection, fabric coat and Detailing Kingdom Skin Satin on the dash and hard plastic for a warm glow.